Hi Mike, @Mike
That is correct, I wouldn’t touch a highlight with a stump but typically highlights are here and there not as many as you would think; the majority of the work will have some kind on tonal value to it even if a very light tone. For instance, the white of your eye has a tonal value it is not just white. The only place I don’t tone or blend on an eye is the highlight in the pupil and or a small highlight area on the iris. Everything else has tonal value.
And yes, I make my own powder to run the stump in by using the sandpaper and a (9H) pencil rubbing the pencil over the sandpaper then taping the sandpaper onto the scrap paper, run the stump through the powder and rub a little to make sure it’s worked into the stump, I find that the stump doesn’t pick up graphite off my work it also moves across the paper better.
A little tip- I would try to keep from overusing the blending stump as it will increase the likely hood of graphite shine not so much worry with charcoal, but it can happen, it is also just an overall good habit not to rely on it too much.
Here is a break-down of my approach and a little why in hopes it makes sense, and you may even find helpful with all your works. When using graphite as well as Charcoal (minus all the choices of pencils since we typically have just hard and soft charcoal) I use the same thought process with charcoal, as in I start the same way hard to soft charcoal. I am referring mostly to graphite here only because to me it is easily understood and may even be helpful with your pencil drawings in your art journey!
One important step I need to mention- I use soft charcoal or a soft pencil very lightly for sketching in the subject since it erases much easier and then I will begin my shading with a hard pencil building up values.
Why I start with harder pencils (e.g., H, 2H) and work gradually toward softer pencils (e.g., B, 2B, 4B, etc.).
-Hard pencils (H–2H) help you build light, clean layers and establish values without smudging or shine. (at least one overall layer over everything except highlights) (these are also my lightest lights that I will leave as is without adding a softer pencil to.) Can use a soft brush to blend lightly.
-Softer pencils (4B–6B+) are used last for deep shadows—but only where needed—to reduce over-application and shine. (my darkest darks)
Midtones- I typically have a layer of hard pencil down I will then lightly blend in a soft pencil maybe 2B (depends on the value I need) lightly until I get the desired values.
My Workflow:
- I Start with H/2H pencils for the light values.
- Add HB and 2B for mid-tones.
- Use 4B–6B selectively for dark accents.
- Blend gently as you go with your pencil or charcoal using soft pressure adding layers, without overworking. To avoid overworking I use a soft makeup brush to blend if needed before the final layer which is then blended using a blending stump if needed. (I use the stump and or make-up brush in select area’s that need that extra little help I typically don’t use a stump or brush all over my work. I depend on the layers and the blending with my pencil/charcoal for the overall look.
- Very dark areas I use charcoal or a matte black pencil if shine becomes an issue. I will first spray a light coat of the workable fixative let it dry then apply the charcoal or matte black pencil over it.
Tips to Avoid Shine
- Don’t press too hard. Apply product in layers using light pressure and build up slowly.
- Use matte fixative between layers (if needed), but test first—it can change the tone/color to a darker or deeper tone. The fixative can be used with charcoal, graphite pencils, colored pencils as well as pastels. It allows you to rework an area almost like adding tooth over what is already there. Carful because you cannot erase or move what is under the fixative.
- If using graphite-Switch to charcoal or graphite alternatives (like Mars Lumograph Black or Blackwing Matte pencils) in deep shadow areas to reduce shine.
- Avoid over-blending. Use blending stumps sparingly. Instead, blend lightly with a tissue or soft brush for smoother, more natural transitions. We want to keep the tooth of the paper; the blending stump presses the tooth down eventually you won’t be able to add any more layers.
- Use crosshatching or directional shading rather than heavy rubbing for a more dimensional look with less shine.
Sorry for the lengthy reply, I hope it helps though.
Jess
Ps. graphite and charcoal don’t always play well together and using them in the wrong order can lead to frustrating results.
Graphite over charcoal is Acceptable (sometimes)
Charcoal won’t stick to the Graphite so avoid that.
Best practice: Keep them separate when possible
